For his second showing on the London men’s schedule, Samuel Ross, A-Cold-Wall’s creative director, showed an intelligent collection of slightly off-kilter proportions. It riffed on office workers’ wardrobes, with lots of the kind of streetwear that has swiftly earned him floorspace at Barneys New York and Harvey Nichols, and a collaboration with NikeLab Air Force 1.
Though the models carried shopping baskets of photocopy paper, the white-collar references in the clothes were subtle: in the gray flannel outsized overcoat in a faded windowpane check, worn over a black PVC hooded boiler suit; or in the asymmetric navy blazer, cut with skewed shoulders and teamed with narrow gray pants.
Elsewhere, Ross played with shiny textures, using clear PVC in pockets or panels down the front of trousers. A taupe padded bomber looked great with a pair of nylon track pants with drawstring knees, as did the cropped khaki nylon anorak with a cut-away front that showed the crisp white shirt beneath.